Friday, May 11, 2007

Darjeeling & Gangtok


This picturesque 7,001-foot (3,134-meter) hill station - which served as a cool summer retreat for the English during the Raj - is especially well known for its production of tea. Flanked by towering mountains, including Kanchenjunga, elevation 28,208 feet (8,598m), Darjeeling has views that are truly dramatic - a great way to fully savour them is by taking a trek in the surrounding countryside. Nestled in the grandeur and beauty of towering snow-capped mountains, with the mighty Kanchenjunga (King of the Mountains) dominating the somber, snowy sentinels, is a jewel of a town - elegant, sophisticated and incredibly beautiful.

Known as the Queen of the Hills, Darjeeling’s wonderfully cool climate, clear brisk air and the breathtaking views of the Himalayas once drew the British here to escape the stifling heat of Kolkata. Mark Twain seems to have visited this Himalayan city and penned down his impression about Darjeeling as the "land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that away for the shows of the rest of the world combined." Such is the beautiful land of Darjeeling.

These spectacular views and the climate have stayed the same, which is why at any given point you will find honeymooners there. But beware, the mighty Kanchenjunga stands sentinel to your romance. Stick your head out the window of the train as it turns the loop at Batasia, wrap your cold hands around a cup of hot, fragrant chai as you watch the sun rise over Kanchenjunga – golden, glorious, and humbling.

Getting to Darjeeling

The most romantic way to access Darjeeling is by hopping the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, also known as the "Toy Train", a narrow-gauge train that has been chugging up and down the hill since 1881. The train departs from the New Jalpaiguri station (near Siliguri) and takes around 6.5 hours (picking up passengers at Kurseong) to reach Darjeeling; advance bookings are recommended. Two-hour "joy rides" on this train are also possible for those who don't have time to take the full journey. Apart from the Toy Train, you can get to Darjeeling by bus as well as by share-jeeps and taxis, which all make frequent trips between Darjeeling and surrounding towns, including Siliguri. You can easily get around "downtown" Darjeeling by foot. For longer trips, catch one of the numerous share-jeeps that cost just a fraction of what you'd pay for a private taxi.
Darjeeling's Attractions

Riding on the "Toy Train" is one of the town's glowing attractions, giving passengers the chance to see the breathtakingly beautiful scenery en route to Darjeeling. You can get an insight into the tea-making process at the Makaibari Tea Estates, which offers not only tours but also lodging, and mountain and jungle treks.

Located around eight miles (12.8 km) south of Darjeeling is Tiger Hill, which has stunning views of the surrounding mountains, including Kanchenjunga. You can even catch a distant glimpse of Mount Everest. The best time to visit is at the crack of dawn, when the sight of the rising sun is positively magical. In the Darjeeling vicinity you'll find some notable Buddhist monasteries, including the Bhutia Busty Gompa and the Yiga Choeling Gompa, each built in the 19th century and containing fine murals.

The top spot to book white-water rafting expeditions (these range from a couple of hours to a couple of days) is from Darjeeling, even though the trips themselves often depart from the Teesta Bazaar. Boating is along the rapids of the Rangeet and Teesta Rivers, with prime rafting seasons September to November and March to June.

You'll find some terrific places to eat in Darjeeling, including restaurants that dish out global fare, from Mexican-style enchiladas to Italian pasta and Tibetan momos (fried or steamed stuffed dumplings). Many restaurants in Darjeeling close as early as 8pm. Room rates skyrocket April to June and October to December, so come at other times to save money.

Gangtok

Capital of the remote north-eastern Indian state of Sikkim, Gangtok stretches along an undulating ridge and enjoys glorious views of the mighty Kanchenjunga, India's highest mountain. Although it has seen escalating modernization in recent times, this city still has a more relaxed demeanour than most Indian towns its size. Gangtok is a good base from which to explore the state's surrounding attractions. Gangtok means, aptly enough, "hill top" and is perched at 5500 feet high on the ridges of a valley. From Gangtok, you look over the hillside, down and across to terraced fields, with tall, white Buddhist prayer flags fluttering in the wind and endless stunning backdrop of towering snow-capped peaks.

Getting To Gangtok

The most common way to reach Gangtok is by bus, with state-run buses arriving and departing from the SNT (Sikkim Nationalized Transport) station on Palzor Stadium Road. In addition, privately operated mini-buses travel here from a selection of towns including Kalimpong, Siliguri and Darjeeling; the private bus depot is on National Highway 31A. You can also catch one of the many share-jeeps and taxis that shuttle between Gangtok and various towns, including Kalimpong, Siliguri and Darjeeling. There are plenty of share-jeeps in Gangtok, which are a cheap and quick way to get around town. Private taxis are also available. Gangtok's restaurants offer a jumble of Indian, Tibetan, Chinese, continental and Sikkimese cuisine at reasonable prices. Hotel tariffs decrease by as much as 30 percent during Sikkim's off-peak seasons, January to March and July to August.

Gangtok's Attractions

The Namgyal Institute of Tibetology was established in 1959 to carry out research into Tibetan and Mahayana Buddhist culture. The institute houses a massive collection of Buddhist literature and manuscripts as well as an array of sublime tankas (Tibetan paintings) and a variety of sacred relics, including a human skull that once served as a holy bowl. Close to the institute is the tranquil and colourful orchid sanctuary and memorial garden. Sporting stunning town and mountain views is the Enchey Gompa. This Buddhist monastery, built in the early 20th century, houses murals and statues.